DK REPTILES CARE SHEET

          These guidelines will work for most of the commonly kept snakes in the hobby today. There are many things to consider before you make your purchase. Things like do you have an enclosure that will be suitable for your new pet? How large will they grow and will I be able to properly feed and care for them? Snakes can live to 15 years or more so please keep this in mind when making your purchase. Thankfully, the requirements to keep your new pet happy and healthy are not too difficult and only take a few minutes a week.

ENCLOSURE

          For small to medium snakes glass aquariums work well. They are easily cleaned and not too heavy and are easy to heat. Try to find one made with a sliding screen top. Snakes are VERY good at escaping so the lid should fit tightly and securely. There are lids made of screen that clip on but they are not as secure as the sliding type. The down side of glass aquariums is that they can break or chip and they are not space efficient, but I still recommend them highly!

SUBSTRATE

          There are many good products on the market to use as bedding in your enclosure. Some look better than others, but it is really up to you. Here are some examples: newspaper is not very attractive but is handy and cheep. Pine or aspen shavings work very well. They are very absorbent and are easy to spot clean. Sand works ok but is very heavy and not at all absorbent. It can also impact in the gut if swallowed. There are colored sands on the market made of calcium that is better than the real stuff. Carefresh is another product out there. It is made of paper and wood pulp and is very absorbent, but watch out with small snakes because it can dehydrate them. It is very lightweight but its gray color is not very attractive. Others include paper towel, sani chips, and orchid bark. NEVER use cedar or redwood shavings. They are fine for hamsters but contain toxic chemicals and will kill your pet snake! If you need other options just ask.

HEATING

          There are several ways to heat your enclosure. The one I like best a heat source that is placed under half of the enclosure. The warm side should be about 85 degrees and the cool side about 75 degrees. There are heaters made just for reptiles that work well, just make sure they have a thermostat on them so they don't get too hot. That way they can regulate their own body temperature. I also like to use a regular heating pad that you can buy at any hardware store to sooth sore muscles. Simply fold it in half and use the lowest heat setting. I do not recommend hot rocks. I have seen some very nasty burns because of them. You can use incandescent light bulbs to heat one end of your enclosure during the day but you will still need something for the night.

WATER

          Clean, fresh water should ALWAYS be available for your snake to drink and should be kept on the cool side of the enclosure. I recommend a water change be done at least twice a week. You can use just about any water bowl you would like, just make sure it can't be tipped over too easily. If it does tip over, it should be cleaned up and the soiled litter changed as soon as possible.

HIDE SPOT

          Your pet will feel more secure with a cozy place to hide. I recommend one on the warm side and one on the cool side if space permits. Many things can be used. I like a Rubbermaid or other plastic container with a hole cut in the top. It's a good idea to put some slightly moist moss or paper towel in the bottom of it. This will aid in shedding when that time comes. You can also buy a commercially made hide space. They can be logs or even fake rocks with holes in them like a cave. Again, it is really up to you and your taste.

FOOD

          One or two appropriate sized mice a week will keep your pet happy and healthy. Too much food will lead to an overweight and lazy animal. You should give your new pet a few days to settle in before you try to feed it. If your pet does not eat right away, you can leave the food item in the cage for a few hours. If it still doesn't eat, try again in a few days. There are many reasons a snake will not eat. It could be going into a shed cycle or maybe it just can't find its' food! A good trick to get your baby to eat is to put it back into the cup you brought it home in and add the mouse. This way it will be in constant contact with the food item and can easily find it. If it is going into a shed cycle, it's skin and eyes will become dull and cloudy, and it will probably go into hiding. After it sheds it will be hungry and should eat right away. I know it is hard but you should try not hold your pet just after it eats. This could lead to an upset stomach and that's no fun!

LIGHTING AND OTHER WORDS OF WISDOM

          Though full spectrum lighting is not required for most snakes, it does make the animal look beautiful. It will show the full colors of your pet. NEVER keep you cage in front of a window that gets full sun. It will act like a green house and will cook your scaly friend. That's about it.

          If you ever have any questions in the future, you can contact me at dave@dkreptiles.com or call 510-910-1970. I will be happy to answer any questions about your animal whether you purchased it from me or not! Thanks again for choosing a snake as a pet.

Thanks You,

Dave Katz of DK Reptiles
phone: 510-910-1970
email: dave@dkreptiles.com